Santa Maria delle Grazie

Church and convent in Milan, Italy, whose refectory holds Leonardo’s Last Supper.

At a glance

SourceAuthorRoleIn one line
Neither Here Nor ThereBill BrysonsubjectA long walk across Milan to see a fresco so faded it is “like a ghost image”.

Neither Here Nor There — Bill Bryson (1991)

Source: Readwise highlight

Afterward I walked a long way across the city to see Leonardo’s “Last Supper” in the refectory beside the church of Santa Maria delle Grazie.

  • Role: subject
  • In the book: Chapter 16. He pays “a load of money” and steps into a bare, dim hall. A railing keeps visitors about twenty-five feet away from a painting “so faded that it can barely be seen from five feet”. He says that without the thousand reproductions you probably wouldn’t recognise any of it.
  • Why it matters: It is the chapter’s best comic set-piece about a masterpiece that barely survives, and fits the book’s running theme of famous sights that disappoint in person.